![]() ![]() If you’re using a cotton batting, chances are it will shrink slightly after washing and soften up the quilt. Overall I’d say most of the stiffness issue will be sorted out with washing. What works for one thing doesn’t always translate over to the other. ~ CheriĬheri’s question is running in tandem with my thoughts – lots of quilting looks nice, but will it FEEL nice when it comes time to wrap up with this quilt?Īnd this is one of those tricky things about making both bed quilts and art quilts. How do I do this? I have tried several kinds of batting, and always the meandering.but still…while it looks nice…the quilts are stiff and not soft. I want my quilts to be soft, and cuddly, and able to wrap up in them.have them be able to wrap around legs while watching tv or just to wrap up as the only blanket used and still have some puffiness to them. It is about 1/2 inch thick and kind of fluffy. I use 100% cotton fabrics and usually 100% polyester or sometimes 80/20 poly/cotton batting. ![]() I started stippling…and learned to make the stitches farther apart as I mention with meandering, but still…the quilt is so stiff. I find that the quilt is so stiff and not “cuddley”. I meander…and make stitches about 1.5-2 inches apart and never cross lines. My question is about the “stiffness” of the quilt after FMQ. Working on it has gotten me thinking about quilting density and I just so happened to receive a question along these lines this morning as well: I’ll send emails to all of those lovely ladies.Yes, it’s this looks nice, but is this quilting getting too dense on the surface? This is supposed to be a soft, cuddly bed quilt designed to be light enough for warm summers or still useful as the top quilt for winter. I’m looking forward to Saltwater by Tula Pink. Thanks for sending the link to your blog with my purchase from your shop. It was a fun thing to do for me ~ I made all my clothes through school till the 12th grade! I was 8 years old and it was my Dad who taught me to sew ~ he thought I ought to make my own clothing. If I ever figure out how to draw on the computer, I’ll share how I did it and what I found worked the best.īound with ‘Grate’ from the Lucky Penny range I quilted just in the white space with a meandering figure eight. Now, finish your quilt by basting, and quilting. Insert your row of extra blocks and reassemble. Fold your crossweave in thirds down the vertical length and make a clean cut. Sew them into a row alternating the direction 90 degrees for each block. Once your blocks are all laid out, sew them into rows It should look more like the top layout than the bottom (see the picture) Make sure that they appear random and make sure to keep your colors varied. Rotate each block 90 degrees from the previous block’s placement. If you keep a consistent scant 1/4″ seam allowance, this shouldn’t be too necessary. If you have any squares that are grossly out of square, just trim them up. You should end up with a minimum of 81 6″ squares. Sew a solid strip to each side of your bike path print like this: You will need 2 strips for each bike path strip. Each half yard piece should yield 11 pairs of 1.75″ strips. I also cut an extra strip of the pink, grey, and the chartreuse which made it so that I had enough pieces to do the back.Ĭut your solid into 3 18″x Width of fabric pieces. It is ok if the strip is more than 18″, but it needs to not be any less than 18″. Cut parallel to the selvedge so that each cut piece measures 3.5″x 18″. Start by pressing all of your bike path prints and your solid to prepare for cuttingĬut 3 3.5″ strips of each bike path print. ![]() Thread, Scissors and the usual assortment of Sewing tools.ġ.75 yards of Moda Crossweave in Natural For the backing So, here is my little tutorial for my pretty Crossed Paths quilt.Ī fat quarter bundle of bike path prints from Lucky Penny (9 total) ![]()
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